I never thought I’d develop such a relationship for surfing, especially here in the waters with sharks, but it happened. I crave for the Ocean, catching the waves and developing my surfing skills. Even if the conditions are more often too rough than favourable, every session makes me feel more free and connected to the earth. Surfing for me is the best form of exercising – you have to be totally present, dependent on how the earth has decided to serve you the waves on this particular day.
I don’t know if it’s my new wetsuit, new beach with easier waves (Muizenberg), or simply making progress, but I can finally actually surf on the waves. I always loved going out there, but it was often more about surviving through the waves. Though I know the self-confidence I have now might change and your performance is dependent on so many things, I now feel like I am able to take the wave as it comes and choose to stand up and surf. This feeling makes all the inconvenience related to surfing (driving and sitting in traffic mostly;) so worth it. The Ocean really makes you realise how small you are, and how little you can control. For me, surfing and yoga are the best forms of therapy for the mind and body. There’s no way you can come out of the Ocean and not feel more free, more happy than before going there.
In Cape Town, the best spots for beginners are Big Bay and Muizenberg, in Stellenbosch, Strand. I also look forward surfing at Clifton, Lladudno, Hout Bay… one day 😉